Tanzania North and South, A Privately Guided Safari.

This safari started when someone actually read a safari report I had written a few years ago. So it’s only write that I right another to celebrate. Wildlife photography, the migration, avoiding the crowds and some good family safari time were on the lists for this trip and we had some fun planning it. 

Things got off to an faltering start when a passport was left at home, but the wildebeest don’t wait, so off we went to the Serengeti with a catch up plan in action. After a brief stop at Seronera and a ride on a decidedly rattly plane we touched down at Kogatende in the far north. Meeting our guide we made our way up to Nyikani Migration Camp, right up by crossings zero and one, a lovely quiet area to explore in the mornings and evenings. It’s a great value camp that does everything you need in combination with an excellent guide and vehicle. 

Catching up with the locals, lovely elephants along the Mara River, lions further down, giraffes and of course the building herds of wildebeest and zebra. Last year the first crossings had been around July 19th, so we timed it for a few days later and it didn’t take long for us to see the first wildebeest jump down the bank. A relatively small number but with all the drama and excitement crossings entail, including one unfortunate calf getting well and truly dispatched by a monstrous crocodile! The next morning after our straggler had caught up, we came down to the river as a herd of elephants crossed in front of the sunrise, a serene moment. During crossing season you can either go and sit by the river all day, or go exploring and try to time it just right. I prefer the latter, and explore we did. Finding some epic bush breakfast spots, a leopard up in the Kuria Hills, more lions, cheetah out at Bologonja and another crossing. 

Time to move on. After a fair bit of time under a tree at the airstrip we flew south into the heart of Tanzania with that pilot who hangs his arm out the window, flies one handed and doesn’t speak a word of English. It’s incredible where a plane can take you in a couple of hours, to a totally different environment. Different colours, different sounds, different skies, different animals. Sundowner on a bend of the Mwagusi River where the sun goes behind the mlala palms, just us and the elephants. We climbed up to Ikuka and the look on our guests faces is always a treat - we’re staying here!? Ikuka makes you feel special straight away.

It’s always cool when you arrive somewhere late and wake up in the morning not knowing what to expect. Especially in Ruaha when you’re already on the road in the dark. As the sky slowly lightens silhouetted baobabs appear all around, baboons bark and squeal and the air smells like dust, elephants and wilderness. A couple of bat eared foxes while looking for old roads, a wee group of lesser kudu, breakfast under a baobab with endless views. Not a soul. We heard the lions caught a buffalo and by evening we found them under the bridge, nine big fat bellies. 

Next morning we drove across Ruaha to the main gate, out through the wildlife management area to the nearest village Tungamalenga. We came to visit Mkuyu Guide School, where young people from all over Tanzania come to learn about wildlife, hoping for a break in the safari industry. We took a walk through the surrounding fields, learning about school and village life, meeting the students and swapping stories. After some excellent presentations we discussed local life over lunch and headed back into Ruaha. 

The next plane took us to Nyerere National Park, formerly known as the Selous. I love this flight in along the Rufiji River. Sand Rivers sits of a huge bend in the river and the name says it all, it’s a special spot. Jump out on the boat and head out on the water, make acquaintance with the hippos and keep practicing gin and tonic mixing on the sandbank. New photographic challenges bobbing around on the water focusing on samango monkeys and pygmy kingfishers. Even catching a tiger fish. Stretching the legs on an afternoon walk we came across a tower of giraffe in a beautiful clearing, and then a buffalo that required a hasty exit. Walking straight into our own fly camp for the night. Campfire, fine dinning under the stars and the best way to wake up in the morning. 

Time to say goodbye as our guests went to finish their safari on Fanjove Private Island. All the unwind and barefoot luxury you could possibly want after a long and action packed safari. Thanks to them and everyone who looked after us along the way. 

We made a film about it, check it out here.